history

Since the ancient times Istria was known as the land of pretty vineyards and good wine. Quality of Istrian wine at some point in history represented quality of life of Istrian people. When the quality of life was higher, the quality of wine was better too and the other way around. In amphoras, barrels and bottles the best Istrian wine had been arriving on to the tables of wine connoisseurs throughout the Europe, but most of it was consumed in Istria as an everyday and holiday drink. Wine had gained the honour to be returned to vineyards from which it had originated. Wine-growers would tucked it onto their waists in small barrels, Barili, and it was helping them to nourish the vine which would produce the new wine with greater boldness and joy.

Istrian wine history has not been entirely explored, but even a gentle insight in the past times gives away centuries old, unbreakable connection of people with their favourite drink and elixir of life. Here, just shortly, we’re going to review the most recent past where commercialization of wine production starts, thanks to Austrian agricultural politics, which had put a significant emphasis on viticulture. New wine period starts in the middle of 19th century, but the critical point was the decision of Istarski sabor (Istrian assembly) on 5th September 1874 on founding of Istrian vine-fruit Institute in Poreč /Instituto eno-pomologico Istriano, which had started with the work in 1875.

Modernisation of viticulture and wine processing had happened and new contemporary wine cellars were open. More and more people take up vine-growing and winemaking due to favourable loan conditions and stimulations. Soon, within the Institute, on 8th February 1883 Agricultural school had been founded. Agricultural Society of Istria, Agricultural bank etc. are the first of many organizations which were founded throughout Istria and among the other things they dealt with vine-growing and winemaking development.

At the same time the spread of phylloxera started and the newly founded institutions and goverment’s traveling agriculture teachers would have crucial part in restart of viticulture after years of desperation and fear over the vine’s and people’s destiny.

Nevertheless, most intriguing and almost mythical support for the viticultural development represents opening of the first contemporary cellar in 1882 on the ground floor of Istrian assembly building in Poreč.

Resurch of the work of Istrian assembly has almost entirely delt with the political and national conflicts not taking in consideration developing stategies of that time, joint battle against phylloxera, tax reduction battle and rebellion against imported wines. Battles for Istrian viticulture and winemaking were fought jointly no matter what nationality or political orientation people were, but that’s the least that could had been expected of an assembly that was sitting above a wine cellar. Even before that there was always a connection between the reigning party, production and consuming of wine. Wine was always a first class political subject matter in Istria. There’s Matteo Bartoli advertising material for the elections in 1907 in which he said: “Electors, nobody hasn’t fought for a law against falsified wines except Bartoli.” / “Elettori, nessuno ha combatuto per la legge contro i vini articicali se non che Bartoli.”

Although Istrian winemakers had participated in European and world’s wine exhibitions from the middle of 19th cetury, first big recognition Istrian wines got in 1902 at the World’s Exhibition of Wine in Turin. A year earlier in Pazin, First Istrian public tasting of wine held place, and four years later Agricultural School was open, with classes in Croatian language.

Beginning of the 20th century is a beginning of Istrian wine lift off and Teran is a variety which represents Istrian progress in wine. A symbol of the moment that had been prepared decades earlier represents construction of the new Agricultural Institute building in Poreč in 1907. Quite a significance also had a magazine „Istrian Agriculture”/ L’Istria Agricola which was published for the first time that same year. In the magazine there were instructions and references and advertisements for courses and fairs.Four years later in Pazin, a magazine „Sensible master” was published. Throughout Austro-Hungarian Empire there were already advertisements for Istrian wines in daily newspapers. We musn’t forget the importance of winegrowers and winemakers associations which were gathering growing numbers of winemakers and which were opening co-operatives cellars throughout Istria. Soon after there will be new stagnation caused by wine price reductions due to larger production. To overcome the crisis wine producers and merchants had united themselves in Winemakers-Merchats Association/ Enopolio Istriano. Hard decades of Istrian History were yet to come.

International fair in Rijeka that took place in 1926, was a beginning of closure of Istrian winemaking within it’s own boundaries. It wasn’t possible to keep up with Italian winemaking and Istria was becoming just one of wine-rich Italian regions. We bring you a photo of Istrian Merchant and Industial Council / Instituto Agrario Provincale di Parenzo showroom at the fair in Rijeka in 1926 where the wines of Istrian Agricultural Institute in Poreč were presented. National Holiday of Grapes /Festa Nazionale dell’ Uva in 1930 was a publicity event, while at the same time due to high taxes and unreasonable bureaucratic decisions, winegrowers took a path of underground economy.

Istrians have always celebrated wine whether together as on Martinje, or alone while walking through their own vineyard admiring their grapes and secretly assessing neighbours’, or satisfyingly looking at the full barrels.

Istrian winegrowing and winemaking history deserves more than a few lines. But these do successfully illustrate the paths Istrian man took in search for better life and better wine.